ÄIO’s research featured in EURO COSMETICS magazine: Exploring the Future of Fermentation-Derived Cosmetic Oils
ÄIO’s Head of Cosmetics Development, Dr. Magdalena Koziol, has published a technical article in the April issue (4/2026) of EURO COSMETICS, one of Europe’s leading trade magazines for the cosmetics and personal care industry.
The article, “Fermentation-Derived Oils: A Biotechnological Approach to Skin Renewal,” explores how precision fermentation is creating a new generation of functional lipid ingredients and why biotechnology is becoming an increasingly important part of modern skincare innovation.
Sharing science with the cosmetics industry
EURO COSMETICS has been connecting cosmetic scientists, formulators, ingredient suppliers and manufacturers for decades, providing in-depth technical articles on ingredient innovation, formulation science and market trends.
Publishing in the magazine gives ÄIO the opportunity to share not only our own research, but also contribute to a broader discussion about how biotechnology can support the next generation of cosmetic ingredients. As fermentation continues to transform industries ranging from pharmaceuticals to food, cosmetics is emerging as another field where microbial biotechnology can provide new possibilities for performance and sustainability. At ÄIO we believe that future cosmetic ingredients will increasingly be designed not only for efficacy, but also for sustainability, traceability and responsible production.
Dr. Magdalena Koziol, Head of Cosmetics Development at ÄIO says: “Biotechnology allows us to rethink not only how cosmetic ingredients are produced, but also how they perform. Fermentation-derived oils demonstrate that sustainability and efficacy can go hand in hand, opening new opportunities for the future of skincare.”
Dr. Magdalena Koziol, Head of Cosmetics Development at ÄIO
From fermentation to skin science
The article explains how fermentation-derived oils differ from conventional plant oils and why they are attracting increasing attention from formulators. ÄIO oils are produced through controlled microbial fermentation, these ingredients contain naturally occurring fatty acids, carotenoids, sterols and antioxidant compounds while offering consistent quality and traceability. Unlike agricultural production, fermentation allows ingredients to be produced independently of climate, seasonal variability and large-scale land use, supporting a more resilient and transparent supply chain.
Using transcriptomic analysis of keratinocytes, ÄIO’s internal studies (conducted together with an independent third-party laboratory) investigated how fermentation-derived oils influence pathways associated with skin renewal and hydration. The research describes changes in gene expression linked to hyaluronic acid synthesis, extracellular matrix remodelling and skin barrier support while showing a more balanced biological response than is typically associated with retinoids.
Rather than positioning fermentation-derived oils as direct replacements for retinoids, we highlight their potential to support skin renewal while maintaining skin barrier integrity and reducing irritation risk.
About the article
Title: Fermentation-Derived Oils: A Biotechnological Approach to Skin Renewal
Author: Dr. Magdalena Koziol, Head of Cosmetics Development, ÄIO
Published in: EURO COSMETICS, Issue 4/2026
PDF version: Euro-Cosmetics_0426_ÄIO
About ÄIO ingredients
- Fermira™ RedOil, our carotenoid-rich functional, fermentation-derived oil. INCI: Rhodotorula Oil
- ZymaLipid Complex, our high-purity fatty acid complex. INCI: Linoleic/Oleic/Palmitic Acid
- Encapsulated oil, our multifunctional lipid-rich powder ingredient. INCI: Rhodotorula Ferment