ÄIO brings fermentation-derived cosmetic oils to the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit and earns TWO award nominations

ÄIO is heading to Paris for the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Europe 2026, where our Head of Cosmetics Development, Dr. Magdalena Koziol, will present the potential of fermentation-derived oils as sustainable alternatives to conventional cosmetic ingredients. The event also brings another important milestone: ÄIO has been selected as a finalist in two categories at the 2026 Sustainable Beauty Awards, including Sustainable Ingredient for our FERMIRA™ RedOil.

On 27–28 October, scientists, ingredient manufacturers, cosmetic brands, sustainability specialists and industry leaders will gather in Paris to discuss the future of sustainable beauty. This year’s event connects two important parts of our work: the scientific expertise behind our fermentation technology and the growing recognition of our commercially available cosmetic ingredients.

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit: where science meets the future of beauty

Organised by Ecovia Intelligence, the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit has been bringing together international cosmetics industry stakeholders since 2009. The 18th European edition focuses on green ingredients, sustainable supply chains, biotechnology, regulations and the environmental and social impacts of cosmetic products. These topics are becoming increasingly relevant as the industry looks for alternatives to conventional raw materials, more reliable sourcing and ingredients that combine sustainability with measurable performance.

The programme brings together experts from organisations including Imperial College London, Davines Group, Croda Beauty, Lubrizol, AAK, Lush and Beiersdorf. ÄIO will contribute to the discussion on sustainable raw material sourcing and the role of biotechnology in creating new cosmetic ingredients.

From New York to Paris: Magdalena Koziol returns to the summit stage

Following her presentation at the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit North America in New York this May, Dr. Magdalena Koziol, ÄIO’s Head of Cosmetics Development, will take the stage in Paris on 28 October. Her presentation, “Sustainable Alternative to Conventional Cosmetic Oils: Novel Lipids from Fermentation of Low-Value Side Streams,” will explore how fermentation technology can create functional lipid ingredients while reducing dependence on conventional agricultural raw materials.

Magdalena is a biotechnologist with a PhD in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology from the University of Bristol and more than a decade of experience in biotechnology and cosmetic product development. At ÄIO, she leads cosmetics development, working closely with R&D, quality control, production and commercial teams to ensure that our ingredients meet the technical, regulatory and formulation requirements of international cosmetics markets. Her work connects scientific research with the practical needs of formulators: ingredient functionality, stability, skin compatibility, product performance and sustainability.

ÄIO named finalist in two Sustainable Beauty Awards categories

Alongside Magdalena’s presentation, ÄIO has another reason to look forward to Paris. We have been selected as a finalist in two categories at the 2026 Sustainable Beauty Awards:

1. Sustainable Ingredient (FERMIRA™ RedOil)

This category recognises innovative ingredients that contribute to the sustainability of cosmetic and personal care products. FERMIRA™ RedOil is produced through fermentation of low-value industrial side streams and combines the functionality of a cosmetic oil with naturally occurring bioactive compounds. Its nomination highlights the potential of fermentation technology to provide alternatives to conventional cosmetic oils while offering new formulation and skincare opportunities.

2. Sustainability Start-Up

This category recognises young companies developing innovative solutions that can contribute to a more sustainable cosmetics industry. The nomination reflects the broader journey behind our ingredients: from university research and microbial fermentation to industrial-scale production, international distribution and commercial cosmetic products.

Organised by Ecovia Intelligence since 2013, the Sustainable Beauty Awards recognise sustainability achievements across the cosmetics and personal care industry. The winners will be announced in Paris on 27 October 2026, during the awards ceremony held alongside the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit.

Why fermentation-derived cosmetic oils matter

Vegetable oils and butters are essential to modern cosmetic formulations. They provide emollience, texture, spreadability and support for the skin barrier. However, their production often depends on agricultural land, climatic conditions, seasonal harvests and complex global supply chains. As the cosmetics industry seeks more sustainable and resilient ingredient sources, biotechnology offers another approach.

Through microbial fermentation, specialised microorganisms can transform low-value industrial side streams into high-value lipids. The process takes place in controlled bioreactors, making production less dependent on weather, agricultural seasons and the availability of new farmland. It also creates opportunities to develop ingredients with defined fatty acid profiles and functional properties suited to specific cosmetic applications.

In her latest technical article, “How Fermentation Is Changing the Future of Cosmetic Oils,” published by ÄIO’s Polish distribution partner Medicos, Magdalena explores how biotechnology is changing not only where cosmetic oils come from, but also what they can do. She explains that modern cosmetic ingredients are increasingly expected to perform several functions simultaneously. Beyond basic emollience, formulators are looking for lipids that contribute to sensory properties, emulsion stability, skin compatibility and biological activity. Fermentation-derived lipids offer opportunities to address these requirements through controlled production and ingredient development.

As Magdalena writes: “Fermentation makes it possible to create ingredients with properties that are difficult or impossible to achieve using traditional production methods, opening new opportunities for both functional and active ingredients.”

Her article also explores the growing role of advanced analytical methods, including transcriptomics, in understanding how bioactive cosmetic ingredients interact with skin cells. These approaches help researchers move beyond measuring individual biological markers towards a broader understanding of ingredient activity and the cellular pathways involved. The result is a new direction for cosmetic ingredient development: not simply replacing conventional oils, but creating lipids with specific functional and biological properties.

From biotechnology to commercially available ingredients

At ÄIO, this approach has already resulted in three fermentation-derived cosmetic ingredients:

• FERMIRA™ RedOil is a carotenoid-rich bioactive oil containing naturally occurring antioxidants, phytosterols and other valuable compounds. Research into RedOil includes in-vitro antioxidant studies and transcriptomic analysis exploring its potential to support skin renewal and cellular defence mechanisms.
• ZymaLipid is a high-purity fatty acid complex developed for modern cosmetic formulations. Its composition offers emollient properties, sensory benefits and potential applications in biomimetic skincare and emulsion stabilisation.
• Encapsulated oil is a multifunctional, lipid-rich powder containing naturally occurring bioactive compounds, with potential applications in moisturising, antioxidant and skin barrier formulations.

All three ingredients are commercially available and have received COSMOS, NATRUE and Vegan certifications.

ÄIO has established an international distribution network, allowing cosmetic manufacturers and brands in different markets to access our ingredients and technical support. ÄIO ingredients are used in finished commercial skincare products, including award-winning formulations developed with Estonian cosmetics brand tilk! and products introduced by JOIK.

Bringing science, sustainability and commercial innovation together

The cosmetics industry needs ingredients that meet increasingly demanding requirements for performance, safety, sustainability, quality and supply reliability. Meeting these expectations requires collaboration between scientists, ingredient developers, formulators, manufacturers, brands and distribution partners. At ÄIO, we believe fermentation can play an important role in this transition. Our team has spent years developing the technology, understanding the ingredients and demonstrating their functionality. Today, our fermentation-derived cosmetic oils are commercially available, supported by international distribution partners and already reaching consumers through finished skincare products.

As Magdalena concludes in her recent article, fermentation is evolving from an alternative production method into a platform for developing new classes of cosmetic ingredients with properties designed at the biological level. We are proud to contribute to this development, to share our expertise at the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit and to see our work recognised through two Sustainable Beauty Awards finalist nominations.

We look forward to meeting the international cosmetics community in Paris.

Meet ÄIO in Paris

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Europe
27–28 October 2026 | Paris, France

Dr. Magdalena Koziol’s presentation
28 October | 10:20 AM, Sustainable Supply Chains session
Sustainable Alternative to Conventional Cosmetic Oils: Novel Lipids from Fermentation of Low-Value Side Streams

Sustainable Beauty Awards 2026
27 October | Paris, France
ÄIO finalist: Sustainable Ingredient and Sustainability Start-Up

Further reading

Magdalena Koziol’s technical article: How Fermentation Is Changing the Future of Cosmetic Oils